Kayak Fishing Safety

 

 

Nothing on our planet treats us with as much contempt as the ocean.  You venture onto the sea at your own peril.

 BUDDY.
Don't go kayaking with anyone who is an idiot!  If I have the choice of going alone or going with someone who will put themselves or me in danger, I will go alone.  Of course going with a sensible buddy is the best if only to have someone to raise the alarm.

SELECT THE LOCATION TO SUIT CONDITIONS.
Make sure that your fishing location is suitable for kayak fishing ON THE DAY.  Check the weather forecast and don't go into water that will put you at risk.  Fighting the weather all day will make for a poor day's fishing anyway, so why bother?

Adelaide Weather radar

PERSONAL FLOTATION DEVICE.
I have been hit on the head by a capsizing kayak and just about knocked cold.  (Maybe that's the cause of my problem?)  The time was one of the rare times I had my life-jacket on.  The jacket kept me afloat until I could think again.  I have worn a PFD on every kayaking occasion ever since.
WEAR A PFD at all times.  It might not be "cool" or "macho" but better a live kayaker than a dead hero.  There are plenty of good PFD's designed to be worn by paddlers.

CLOTHING.
When selecting clothing don't forget the water temperature.  If anything goes wrong, you may spend a lot of time in the water.  It would be stupid to kill yourself because you left the wet suit at home.  Wear a fluorescent over-jacket as well to maximise your visibility.   You gotta give gung-ho morons every opportunity to miss you as they tool around on the water.  A high-visibility jacket with reflective patches is also good if you trigger a search.  Even if you are not the object of the search, a high-visibility jacket would give searchers a good reference point.  If your PFD is high-visibility with reflective patches then you can give the over-jacket a miss.

WHISTLE.
The visibility is poor and you've been in the water for six hours - how much energy for yelling have you got left?  Blow the damn whistle - it needs less energy for the same volume and it carries better.  Tie the whistle to your PFD.

KAYAK SAFETY LINES.
You need lines from bow to stern on both sides of  your kayak.  Make them tight enough to be clear of the water but not so tight as they are difficult to grip with cold hands.  In the event of an incident, you can keep a much better grip on the kayak safety lines than on the slippery kayak itself.  They also make convenient points to clip on tethers.

TETHERS.
The last thing you need is to lose your kayak or gear.  All you need to do to prevent this is to use tethers.  Some tethers use velcro or carabiners for quick attachment.  I like small aluminium carabiners (nothing like the feel of solid metal).  Tether yourself and your rods  and the paddle to your kayak.  Keep all tethers neatly out of the way so they don't become part of an accident.  A paddle tether is great when you are trolling and get a strike.  Instead of taking the time to put the paddle in its cradle, chuck it out of the way and grab the rod....the paddle will be at the end of the tether when you need it again. 

LIGHTING.
Aside from dealing with the fishing side of baiting up or fixing tackle, good lighting is a safety item.  If you go out  at night, running lights help to keep the aforementioned powerboat morons from plowing over the top of you and will help if you trigger a search.  Lights also help keep you and your buddy together.  LED lights will give long hours of use on quite small batteries.  Even if you plan to be off the water before dark, ALWAYS carry some form of lighting.  

COMPASS.
You should never NEED a compass.  You are going on the water in a small boat and should never venture so far off-shore or in such weather that you need a compass.  If you are in a part of the world where sudden fogs appear, or where sudden weather changes are common, you should not be on the water when the weather is such that unsafe conditions could occur.  (This is the time for sheep-skin rugs and ladies who smell of Chanel number 5.)  However, all warnings said, a compass is a cheap safety addition.  A hand-held orienteering compass is all that is needed.  Of course a compass is useless if you don't know how to navigate - get training! 

GPS.
What I have said about a compass applies to a GPS when it comes to safety, you should never NEED one.  A GPS comes into its own when you are navigating to a fishing spot.  The GPS will put you over a spot without the need for landmarks.   If you are on the radio to a search resource, the GPS will allow you to give precise location details. 

COMMUNICATIONS
There are two forms of safety communication.  

Firstly, NEVER go out without telling someone responsible where you are going and when to expect you back.  If you are in trouble you need someone raising the alarm.

Secondly there is the portable radio.  Many popular localities have 24x7 radio services.  Find out what frequencies are used in your locality and equip yourself to match.  If you choose to use a UHF hand-held make sure it is 1.5 watts or better.  Many manufacturers claim a 3 mile range for 0.5 watts but don't bet your life on it.  Spend the few extra bucks.   Get yourself a waterproof cover for the hand-held....there are some out there which allow you to use the radio while still in the cover.  Tether the radio to the kayak.  Call your local radio watch when you start your journey and when you return.

HOOK EXTRACTION.
If you get a hook imbedded in your body, don't try to pull it back out - the barb will tear you to pieces.  If you can do so, get to medical help.  If you have no other choice than to remove the hook, use your pointy-nose pliers to push it forward and direct it out until the point is through your skin.  Use the wire cutters to cut off the hook's eye and then pull the hook the rest of the way through.   Treat for infection and get medical advice ASAP.

DEHYDRATION:
Being exposed to the sun and wind for long periods of time can dehydrate you faster than you expect.  Dehydration can severely effect your mental and physical performance - a real problem in a small boat on a big ocean.  Dehydration can also start off kidney stones.  Trust me, you DO NOT want a kidney stone - the pain is something else!  Use camel-backs, bicycle bidons or whatever but you MUST drink regularly. 

What goes in must come out.  Not a problem for SOT's.  A plastic bottle in a SIS is convenient and discreet.

SHARKS:
Australian Navy Sailors have a deal with sharks....the sailors won't go into the water if the sharks don't go into the Front Bar.  Seriously however, sharks are an issue.  As the number of sharks diminish, more of them, especially great whites, are being teased by tourist operators and they are losing their natural reserve when it comes to humans and boats.  The main rule is - be where the sharks are not!  If a fish bleeds  into the water....move location.  If you take a long time to land a fish....move location.  Paint the kayak bottom silver, white or pale blue to blend in with the underwater view of the sky.  Do not drape things over the sides of your kayak which could be mistaken for seal flippers.  And, under no circumstances, keep your catch in a bag in the water.

If a shark starts hanging around, tie your biggest fish onto your biggest float (a yellow party balloon is ideal), put it into the water and move smoothly away.  With luck the shark will go for the fish.  Don't have any fish?....try distracting the shark with your bait.  

If you are attacked by a shark - FIGHT BACK.  Kick, punch, stab, eye gouge - anything to let them know you are not their natural prey.

By the way.  That story about how splashing and shouting scares off sharks...doesn't work - nothing scares sharks!

EPIRB:
Damn good idea!  Take it with you often -  kayaking, bush walking, skiing, four-wheel driving, sailing, hang gliding, rock climbing, UFO watching.......

There are, however, a number of steps you can take to increase your chances of coming back from your kayak fishing trips.

Of course your kayak is always in good condition with a tied-on bailing device (see tip), no leaks and  proper fixed buoyancy, your paddle is also in good condition and floats and you always carry a first aid kit and a pair of pointy-nose pliers with a wire cutter.  
 (see hook extraction).  
The odd flare or two won't hurt either.

Tip:   Sometimes a bailing bucket gets in the way.  Try a block of  sponge rubber on a lanyard.  Just sop up the water and squeeze the sponge over the side.  The sponge gets in tight spots also.

Tip:  Cut the fingertips out of a pair of cheap vinyl gloves.  Turn the one for your dominant hand inside-out.  You now have two protectors to stop blistering on your non-dominant hand as the paddle shaft turns through it.

Tip: To toughen up skin on hands and buttocks for those long journeys, put a table spoon of baby oil into half a pint (300mL) of methylated spirits.  Rub a little into the skin every day for a few days before the journey.  Also good for drying out water-affected hands during the journey.